Vivier sur Mer

The wines of Chablis are perfect with seafood, and Julien Boscus, the young chef at Les Climats confirms this. The minerality and vivacity of a Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre brings out all the sophistication of this recipe that combines red mullet, razor clams, shrimp, crab, and winkles.

List of ingredients

Serves 10

1 black seabream weighing around 1,5 kg
500 g razor clams
200 g brown shrimp
2 rabs
200 g  cooked winkles
1  cauliflower
0,5  daikon radish
1 lemon
1 lime
1  bunch of borage cress
1  stick of celery
olive oil
Sancho pepper

For the tosazu sauce
40 g  kombu
40 g  skipjack tuna (or 20 g)
1 liter water
20 g  gelatin/liter
65 g  soy sauce
70 g  mirin vinegar
65 g rice vinegar

Difficulty :
  • 3 sur 4
  • 3 sur 4

Sommelier’s tip

 Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre

A food and wine combination from Julien Boscus, chef at the Climats restaurant in Paris.
“I was looking for the forthright and saline side of Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre to support the marine identity of the dish. I wanted to combine the sophistication of the seafood with the minerality, freshness, and authenticity of the Chablis terroir.”


1. For the tosazu sauce, soak the kombu in cold water for around 24 hours. Heat until boiling, and add the tuna. Leave to infuse in a covered container in a warm place. Strain and add the gelatin, previously soaked for 24 hours. Add the soy sauce and the vinegar and set aside.

2. Marinade the bream for two hours in a mixture of rock salt, sugar, and herbs. Rinse and leave to dry on a rack for four hours. Cut into slices and brush with good-quality olive oil.

3. Cook the crabs, remove the flesh, and season with the lemon and lime zest, the chopped celery leaves, seaweed, and a little olive oil. Set aside.

4. Open the uncooked razor clams and cut into 1cm pieces. Fry quickly in olive oil. Set aside in the refrigerator.

5. Cook the cauliflower florets in salted water and refresh in ice water.

6. Cut the daikon radish into small cubes and marinade in a mixture of rice vinegar, mirin vinegar, herbs, and beetroot juice.

7. Shell the brown shrimp and the winkles.


Break up the jelly and place on the plate. Add the crab, the slices of bream, the brown shrimp, winkles, razor clams, cauliflower, and cubes of marinated radish.
Finish with the borage cress leaves and Sancho pepper. Serve chilled.


Vivier sur Mer and Chablis Premier Cru Montée de Tonnerre

The author of this recipe

Julien Boscus, chef at the Climats restaurant in Paris.

Julien Boscus is a dynamic and passionate chef whose aim was clear : he wanted to join the intimate circle of Michelin starred restaurants, a circle he had already had a taste of earlier in his career when working alongside Yannick Alléno at the Meurice and Pierre Gagnaire in his restaurants in Paris and Seoul. Now he has achieved that goal, the adventure has only just begun. His cooking is flavorful, contemporary, creative, and indulgent.

The Climats restaurant :
Denis Jamet and Carole Colin are big fans of the Bourgogne region, and in 2013, opened the restaurant Les Climats that is dedicated to its wines.

Your comments